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Saturday, March 7, 2015

Tips for travel in Ireland: The Top 12 Sights

An updated version of this site can be found here

I often see lists of the Top 10 Places to visit in Ireland.  After glancing at most, I usually feel that many places are missing (I think that is the point!).  So, without deciding a number ahead of time I have made a list of my favorites.  These are the places I would take you if you asked me to be your tour guide.


For suggestions on where to stay, click here
For suggestions on planning your trip, click here.


#1 - Newgrange (Brú na Bóinne), Donore, Co. West Meath


Waiting in the rain to enter Newgrange
If you only can see one thing in Ireland, this is it (it is a World Heritage Site).  Newgrange is a prehistoric burial mound dating to about 3200 BC (Older than both Stonehenge and the Great Pyramid at Giza).  This could be the most impressive Stone Age site in the world.  There are many other smaller, similar monuments but this one is clearly head and shoulders above the rest.  Even if you think you have seen all the Stone Age sites you ever need to see, you should visit here.  Allow about 2 hours.

(Heritage Card accepted for admission)

#2 - Cahir Castle, Cahir, Co. Tipperary


Outer wall of Cahir Castle
There aren't a lot of accommodations in Cahir, but I recommend this as a nice place to spend the night.  My favorite castle (very well preserved)  to visit in Ireland is the main attraction here (and it is wonderful).  This compact and peaceful town also boasts a nice walking path alongside the River Suir that will lead you to the interesting Swiss Cottage.  The tours of the castle have always been great.  Allow 1 1/2 hours for the castle.

(Heritage Card accepted for admission to the Castle and Swiss Cottage)


#3 - Carrowmore, Co. Sligo



Dolmen inside Stone Circle at Carrowmore
I LOVE visiting Carrowmore!
Carrowmore is the largest megalithic cemetery in Ireland. It contains 60 tombs in total, including one that is considered to be the oldest man made structure in the world.  The tour lasts about 50 minutes and every tour guide I have had has been fantastic.   This is a kind of one-stop shop for Megalithic Ireland.  This cemetery was used for thousands of years and has just about every type of structure possible.

(Heritage Card accepted for admission)

#4 - The Dingle Peninsula


From Dingle Town, drive the Slea Head loop.  The loop traces the coast of the peninsula and takes you to a multitude of sights.  Among others, you will see a nice Bronze Age promantory fortBeehive huts and amazing scenery.  Even more awaits inland,  including a wealth of  medieval buildings, monastic sites and buildings. A lot of the sights in this beautiful part of Ireland are very unique.  Accommodation is abundant here and if you head into An Daingean (Dingle Town) there are many and varied restaurants and shops (as well as the pubs and restaurants in the other villages you will pass through).
View from Dunbeg Fort

SIDE NOTE: Dingle Town (An Daingean in Irish) is the beginning of the Gaeltacht (an area where Irish is the primary language).  Road signs in these areas only give the name of towns in Irish.  It's no big deal, but you need to make sure that your map has the Irish version of town names.

Once in town, stop into The Tourist Office and they have great maps that have all of the town names in Irish.


(Some sights are free, some charge a couple of Euro and the Heritage Card is accepted for admission to the Gallarus Oratory and the Blasket Centre.)


#5 - Inis Mór, Co. Galway


This is one that you will have to go out of your way to include but is more than worth it.  You can take a ferry or flight to get to the island.  I would recommend flying if that is an option for you.  You can fly over in the morning and back the next morning and it is an amazing day.  A great way to see the island is on bicycle, but you can also go with a local  by van or cart.  The most famous site on the island is the enormous Dún Aonghasa. In addition to the stunning fort, the island is full of free outdoor sites.

SIDE NOTE: If you don't know Irish, you should familiarize yourself with the Irish version of places you don't want to miss as some signs are only in Irish.  The Aran Islands are the place in Ireland where Irish is most used.

(Heritage Card accepted for admission to Dún Aonghasa, most sites on the island are free.)


#6 - The Rock of Cashel, Cashel, Co. Tipperary


About 45 minutes from Cahir (and a great combination to fill up one day without a lot of driving)  is the Rock of Cashel.  One of the more striking (and iconic) sites in Ireland, this was traditionally the seat of power for the King of Munster.  St. Patrick is said to have baptized one of them here.  The Rock is a combination abbey and fortress that contains a round tower and Cathedral all integrated into the same complex.  On a nice summer day, I can't imagine a better day than Cahir and the Rock of Cashel.

(Heritage Card accepted for admission)


#7 - Giant's Causeway, Bushmills, Co. Antrim


Legend has it that Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn McCool), a giant, built this causeway so he could walk to Scotland in order to fight a Scottish giant.  Scientists claim that a volcano is responsible.  I think we all know which is more likely, that's why it's called the Giant's Causeway.  This natural formation is breathtaking, especially when the weather cooperates.

(Admission/Parking/Restroom is £9.00 (it is run by the National Trust UK))


#8 - Glendalough, Bray, Co. Wicklow



St. Kevin's Church, Glendalough
Glendalough is home to a medieval monastery that was founded by St. Kevin.  As St. Kevin's fame grew his monastery became more influential, eventually becoming a pilgrimage site and one of Ireland's most important religious sites.  For visitors today, that is all enhanced by the stunning beauty that surrounds it.  The settlement was built in a valley surrounded by mountains that also is blessed with two beautiful lakes.  The Monastic Site is next to a beautiful, free park that also contains some monastic buildings.  I recommend taking in both, especially if the weather is decent.

(Heritage Card accepted for admission)

#9 - Sliabh Liag, Teileann, Co. Donegal


Slieve League from the east
Sliabh Liag (Slieve League) is the highest sea cliff in Europe.  The cliffs here at the edge of Donegal are almost three times as high as the Cliffs of Moher!  This is one my favorite places in the world.  I have probably been here between 30-40 times and hope to be a frequent visitor again.  The EU has done a lot of work here to increase safety in the last 15 years.  They have done a nice job of allowing you to get close enough to have the full experience of the cliffs while making your visit safe at the same time.  If you continue to walk toward the peak from the car park you will eventually reach what is known as "One Man's Pass".  Legendary among hikers, this is a four foot wide path along the top of the mountain.  Not to be confronted on a windy day!


SIDE NOTE: Teileann (Teelin in English) is in the Gaeltacht (an area where Irish is the primary language).  Road signs in these areas only give the name of towns in Irish.  It's no big deal, but you need to make sure that your map has the Irish version of town names.

(Admission is Free, but be mindful of the weather)


#10 - Dysert O'Dea, Corofin, Co. Clare


Castle O'Dea at Dysert O'Dea
Dysert O'Dea is a great one stop tourist attraction.  There is a tower house style castle that is in good condition.  Inside the castle is a tea room and an exhibition on the Irish War for Independence and Civil War.  Also on the grounds is the remains of an abbey with a very unique High Cross and round tower.


(Admission is  €4)


#11 - Derry Walls/The Bogside


The iconic gable at Free Derry Corner
Derry is unique in that it still has intact city walls.  A tour of the walls are a must, especially for those not native to the island. As a focal point for much of "The Troubles", a tour will give a good understanding of modern life in the north.  After touring the City Walls, I recommend a walk through the Bogside neighborhood.  The murals in this Nationalist community are amazing (and famous) and if you are up for a museum, the Free Derry museum traces the Civil Rights movement in Derry.  Derry is a wonderful, unique city to visit.

(There is no fee to walk the walls or look at the murals, but tours do cost a few pounds (Sterling) per person.)


#12 - Kells Priory, Kells, Co. Kilkenny


St. Kieran's Church, next to Kells Priory
This was the highlight of my first ever visit to Éire and I love to return anytime I am in this part of Ireland.  Kells Priory is located in Kells (about 15 km or 9 miles south of Kilkenny).  This Kells is not to be confused with the much larger, more famous Kells in Co. Meath.  I recommend this as a stop while visiting (or even better, staying in) Kilkenny.

Near the Priory is the striking St. Kieran's Church which is now locked, but you can still see inside.  The Priory's protective walls are majestic and a reminder of how even monasteries needed protection during the middle ages.  On my last visit a lot of work was being done to the structure, so is should be in great shape for your visit.

(Admission is Free)