Fionnuala (2) had trouble sleeping again and ended up in our bed. Liam for the second morning in a row saw the clock strike 6! Thanks to Liam though, our morning was relaxed and not rushed. At 9 o'clock we were off. Leaving behind the Gaeltacht.
A georgeous final morning in Teileann
We made a brief stop at the Supervalu in Killybegs for some picnic items and arrived at Drumcliffe at 10:45 for an early lunch. At 11 AM it was almost empty and made for a nice place to eat lunch. We bought tea and postcards and used the bathrooms before we set off again. This is the best all purpose stop in the Northwest (a nice sight, food and restrooms with no admission fee).
A near empty carpark at Drumcliffe
Picnic tables at Drumcliffe
The children celebrated our arrival in Quin with dancing!
We made a stop for diesel later but were able to make good time today. The traffic was light the whole way making for easy, stress free driving. Fionnuala got her nap in and slept all the way through our picnic. We arrived at Quin Abbey a little after 2 PM.
It really is a magnificent structure. The cloister here is intact and incredible. I've never seen a complete cloister (roof and all) before. The Abbey was built in the 1400s and includes the tower from a castle that was previously on the grounds. It was used on and off until the 1820s.
The only downside was we got yelled at for Liam being too loud and running. We were surprised as this is a ruin and we were the only ones there aside from the caretaker and the man mowing the grass. It still was beautiful, but less enjoyable with the employee scowling at us during our visit. Thankfully, the children were not bothered at all.
Quin Abbey, Co. Clare
Irish grave marker that reads: "Connor McCluin born in Quin in 1893 died for Ireland on Oct 22 1920 in Dublin Castle. May the light of heaven shine on his soul." (If he was in Dublin Castle in 1920 it means he died as part of the revolution)
Quin Abbey Cloisters
The square courtyard surrounded by the cloister
The entrance to Bunratty Castle
From here we headed to Bunratty Castle. The kids loved it and were really enjoying the Folk Village when it started raining and we were getting hungry. Admission was €30 for the family. Bunratty is perhaps the best example of a furnished Towerhouse Castle in Ireland. Built in 1425 and renovated in 1955, they have done a great job finishing it and the building is all complete allowing a visitor to wander into each room and see it as it would have been used. As has been said by many, the only downside to this place is the HUGE volume of tour coaches that stop here as well as it being a popular first or last stop for visitors using Shannon Airport. The castle is hard to miss as you drive on the N20 between Shannon and Limerick. Even with all the visitors, it would be a shame to miss. We gave the Medieval Banquet a miss since the children are so young, but will probably go when the children are older. While cheesy and touristy, it is still a nice evening.
The Great Hall, Bunratty Castle
The main guard, Bunratty Castle
Bunratty Castle
Bunratty Folk Park
From the castle we headed to our B&B outside of Ennis for the night, Lakeside Country Lodge. It is a big wonderful house on a lake with a view of a Newhall House (built in 1765) and Killone Abbey. We checked in, unloaded everything and then went to eat. Our landlady suggested the Poet's Corner in the Old Ground Hotel. It was perfect! They were very accommodating of the children and the food and service were very good too.
The family room at Lakeside Country Lodge, Ennis
After our meal we walked up to Ennis Friary, but it was closed (I didn't realize it was paid entry). It does look interesting, maybe next time we are here. On the way to and from the Friary we passed the Queen's Hotel which was mentioned in James Joyce's Classic Ulysses. We returned to our parking garage and headed back to the house.
The view from the Lodge, Newhall House on the left, Killone Abbey on the right
The kids enjoyed some time in the back yard and garden. Then it was time for bed. A good ending to a great trip!
The next morning it was off to Shannon Airport. Lakeside Country Lodge is a 10 minute drive to the center of Ennis and about 20 minutes to the Avis Car Rental at Shannon. The location is perfect for a night before departure.
We arrived three hours before departure and everything went pretty smoothly, we even had about an hour to spare at the gate. As a wonderful bookend to our trip, a family of three adults and four children sat in the chairs next to us. They instantly caught Liam's attention as he discerned the sounds of some Connemara Irish coming from their mouths. It was great to see the children using Irish not just with the adults, but also among themselves. It was an encouraging sight to see and made me think that maybe on our next visit we'll head to Connemara.
1 July 2014
We landed yesterday at 6:30 AM (30 June). It was a long day! We left the house at 11:30 AM (29 June) and arrived at National Airport about noon. We checked in, cleared security and reached the gate in 15 minutes! It went more smoothly than I ever would have imagined! Then we had three hours until boarding time, but we ate lunch and the kids were pretty good for the most part (though there was crying). The kids were very excited!
SIDENOTE: We had a lot of discussion about whether we should bring the stroller or not. Sarah and I were worried that it would take up precious and limited space in our car. My mother thought we would be crazy to leave it behind. In the end (as you can see) we brought it and that is what made the airports doable.
The JetBlue flight from National to Logan was mixed. Liam (5) was wonderful, Fionnuala (2) was all over the place. We arrived on time in Boston and made a very long multi-elevator/staired walk to our terminal. We had to go through security again, but arrived at our gate with plenty of time. We ate dinner at the worst Cosi in America and then returned to our gate.
The wait was most of an hour and the children were very active and also beginning to tire. The flight was on time (thank you, Aer Lingus) and all was okay at this point. Our flight was on a 757 which has three seats on one side of the aisle and three seats on the other side. Sarah sat with the two kids. We are still married and everyone is alive, but it was a rough flight for my wife! The children (especially Fionnuala) were all over the place even after most of the airplane was asleep. Eventually, Sarah got both kids to sleep but she didn't get much sleep herself. The craziest part was dinner! The food was fine, but it proved very difficult to supervise for one person.
But then, we were landing at Shannon. Liam woke up (grumpy) but Fionnuala started crying (as did the other small ones - it was 1:30 AM EST). Liam eventually became more pleasant and excited. He loved seeing the Irish signage, excitedly explaining to everyone where you could find the "slí amach". Customs and baggage were fast and easy as was the bus to Avis (which is just outside the door to the left -- there is no sign but you don't need to stop at the desk in the airport if you have a reservation). Getting the car was very fast as well. I opted for the Super CDW (which covers almost everything, but doubled the price) and Sarah installed the two car seats. At this point Liam was so excited that he might explode and Fionnuala was also excited and in a good mood.
We started off in our Nissan Qashqai filled to the brim at 7:40 AM. Fionnuala was singing and Liam was pointing out everything that was different from home. By the time we reached Ennis, both kids were asleep again. Traffic was lighter than I expected (would not have been the case at Dublin Airport) and the new motorway really makes arriving at Shannon even easier than before.
It took us an hour to reach Baile Chláir where we ate at Treat Cafe. We woke Liam, but Fionnuala slept on my shoulder the entire time. Liam was too grumpy to eat (and almost to bear). Sarah had the Veggie Brunch and I had the Mini AM Treat and we both had coffee (for €20) and everything was delicious!
SIDENOTE: Baile Chláir is technically a Gaeltacht (Irish speaking area) even though there won't be much Irish around. What is does mean though is you need to make sure that whatever map you use has the Irish town names as all sign posts are only in Irish. Our neighbor lent us Dundrum Maps All Ireland Road Atlas and it was wonderful and has all the Irish place names as well as speed cameras and blue flag beaches.
Claregalway Abbey
Back in the car, we passed Liam's first castle (he had been talking about them for months), then stopped across the street at the Claregalway Abbey. Liam and I explored, he was in heaven! Then I waited in the car with Fionnuala (who had slept through everything so far) so Sarah could look at the Abbey (with Liam). The Abbey was built in the early 1200s and altered in the 1400s when the bell tower was added. The Abbey is an impressive monument where the kids can explore. There is no admission, it is right off the N17, it is always open and has a big nice car park.
The courtyard of the cloister
View of Chancel Gable from the New Graveyard
View of "new" bell tower from graveyard
Old Gateway seen in background from Old Cemetery
Recess in wall of the Chancel
Groin arch support in the center of the complex
The Chancel
Liam investigates
The Bell Tower
Liam poses with Claregalway Castle in background
The New Graveyard
The Cloister
After awhile, we got back in the car to head north to Donegal and Sarah soon joined Fionnuala in sleep (She woke up at Sligo town). 1 hour and 55 minutes later we were at Drumcliff and stopped to visit. Liam at this point in the trip said that his back hurt, I wanted to see the High Crosses, and in addition they have a cafe with restrooms. There is very large car park off of the N15. We looked in the church per Liam's request, saw William Butler Yeats' grave and checked out the cross.
Yeats is buried next to the door of St. Columba's Church. His great grandfather was the rector here. St. Columba (Colmcille) founded a monastery on this site in the 500s. Below is a 10th century High Cross that was made by the monks. There is also the base of an 11th century round tower across the road from the cross. The shaft of a second high cross can be seen near to this one pictured below.
The first picture shows the eastern face of the cross. It includes: Christ in Glory, Daniel in the Lions' Den, Adam and Eve, and Cain's murder of Abel. The western face includes: the presentation at the Temple and the Crucifixion. the southern face of the shaft features the only icon of the Virgin with Christ on a high cross in Ireland.
The eastern face of the cross withe round tower in the background
The eastern face
The western face
The eastern face
The western face with St. Columba's Church in the background
The southern face
The cross with Ben Bulben in the background
Piling out of the car at Creevykeel
After we had finished roaming around Drumcliff and finished our coffees we drove north for 15 minutes and stopped at Creevykeel (there is a signpost). Creevykeel is a court tomb. I have driven past it many times and never even thought to stop. What a shame! Creevykeel is the best and most complete court tomb I have visited. Court tombs have a circular (or semi-circular) courtyard outside of a series of chambered tombs (think a covered dolmen). It was built sometime between 4000 and 2500 BC, with the older date being more likely. For perspective, that makes these monuments older than the pyramids in Egypt. The courtyard was used for some sort of ritual outside of the tombs.
Rag Tree on path to Creevykeel
Again both kids were pleased with the stop! As you approach the court tomb you pass through a series of rag trees (which we had no idea were there). These are holdovers from pagan times that have crept into Christianity. The idea is that you place a piece of clothing from a person who needs help or healing and as the rag disintegrates the prayer will be answered. The British often call the rag a Clootie and the tree a Clootie Tree. It was a nice surprise and an indication that this was a holy place for multiple civilizations and religions.
The kids loved running around and climbing all over everything. It was 21°C and sunny. We couldn't have asked for a better day! The kids especially loved climbing into the burial chambers. Another very interesting thing about this sight is the early Christian kiln that was built into the courtyard (pictured below). Here are some pictures, but there is also a video below.
The entrance to Creevykeel Court Tomb
The early Christian Kiln inside the courtyard
The tomb from the back
The kids exploring the chambers
The view from our front door
By this point it was about 12:30, so we got back in the car to make the final push. We stopped at the Supervalu in Donegal Town for groceries (head toward the town centre instead of taking the bypass), stopped in Killybegs to use the ATM and phone our landlady and then we proceeded to Teileann (Home of Seán Ó hEochaidh). Tania (our landlady) met us at the house about 3:30 PM. She is lovely and An Scrín is amazing. There is nowhere in the world more beautiful than here when the sun is shining!
Sliabh Liag from our window
Total time from leaving our house: 23 hours
Total time from Shannon including stops: 8 hours Total time just driving: 5 hours
We made a lot of stops on the way to our destination in order to break the trip up for both the children and the driver. It also allowed everyone to get some sleep as well as time outside.
