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Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Lough Gur to Clare

An updated version of this site can be found here


June 27, 2000


This morning I went to Lough Gur.  It was beautiful!  The weather has been gorgeous ever since I arrived, surely this means God is a Donovan.  After I left Lough Gur (I didn't see everything, just one side of the lough) I went to Dysert O'Dea.  Again I didn't look at everything, but it was a good stop.  Then I went into town (Corofin) and ate at the Corofin Arms.  I can't believe I didn't make any wrong turns.  After lunch I had tea at my B&B (Killeen House).  This place is nice, Mom would like it.  After my tea I took a nap, those Donovans wore me out!  It's nice to have some time to reorganize before I stay at hostels the next three nights.  What a great country.  Erin go bragh.

On the left is a stone cross on a grave at the New Church at Lough Gur






This is a Wedge Tomb at Lough Gur






Dysert O'Dea is a great one stop tourist attraction.  There is a tower house style castle that is in good condition.  Inside the castle is a tea room and an exhibition of the Irish War for Independence and Civil War.  Also on the grounds is the remains of an abbey with a very unique High Cross and round tower.  St. Tola's cross (to the right), shows the Crucifixion and Daniel in the lion's den as well as a likeness believed to be St. Tola himself.  This used to be a very busy pilgrimage site until a previous land owner tired of the traffic and glued what was, until then, a removable head of Christ permanently into the cross.


Note to Dad: Passed through Newmarket on Fergus without slowing down.
Note to self:  Tell Will that I left my shampoo and conditioner at the first place I stayed (The Celtic Ross)

Back to Co. Limerick. Those stone circles won't see themselves!

An updated version of this site can be found here.

June 26, 2000
Tonight, John (O'Donovan) offered to meet me in Croom and show me the way to my B&B in Grange. Then he took me to a poetry circle (a seisún perhaps?). It was so cool, I wish I wasn't so exhausted! On the way to the pub, we stopped at the Grange stone circle. It's the most awe-inspiring circle that I've seen! I stopped and prayed here on my way home!
It was too large for one photograph, so here's three:






It's located about 2.5 miles north of Bruff. There's a car park just off the road.

I stayed at the Bridge House Farm run by Patricia Barry in Grange (near Bruff), Co. Limerick. I stayed in a single room with a sink, there is also a double room with a sink and a nice large family room with two twin beds and a double bed en suite. I had only had to pay £16.50. I still can't believe that 1500 O'Donovans showed up for the Gathering.

Off to Bruree: Site of the oldest O'Donovan strongholds

An updated version of this site can be found here


June 26, 2000
This morning we traveled to Limerick (near Bruree) to see the oldest standing Donovan architecture where we planted an oak and a time capsule. Again I was moved as we marched through the pasture 100 strong to our ancestor's ring fort (next to the wall).
I can't believe I have to leave everybody now. The last five days have been so amazing, I can't believe that we've grown so close. It's funny how similar everyone really is, actually it's scary.


Mainchín Seoighe presenting his new book From Bruree to Corcomohide to Morgan Gerald Daniel O'Donovan (The O'Donovan)
Tim O'Donovan (Co. Limerick) is on the left with the megaphone
John Emmett Donovan (U.S.) is on the right.


John Emmet Donovan digging the hole to plant the oak tree and bury the time capsule. The De Lacy tower can be seen behind John Emmett.


Tim O'Donovan placing a time capsule in the ground to be opened in 2050 at another Clan Gathering. I placed a key chain from the Donovan Ranch in Cisco, Texas owned by my Grandparents and Great Uncle who inherited it from my Great Grandfather.


This is taken from the De Lacy tower that is built on top of the stone wall built by the Donovans before the were expelled from Limerick. In the pasture behind the barn is what is thought to be the oldest Donovan fort. - an earthen ring fort. The pre-Norman wall along the River Maigue is believed to be the oldest existing stone structure built by the O'Donovans.
One of the reasons I took this picture was so that in fifty years we could find it again. I'll be 75 and hope that I will be able to be there when it comes out of the ground!

Is this Cathair Cuan?

Donnabhán had a fortress at Bruree named Cathair Cuan.  The fact that “Cathair” is used in the name suggests that it was a ring fort.  All of the existing ringforts in the Bruree area today are earthen.  It is thought that the bawn (the stone wall upon which the De Lacy Castle now stands) that runs alongside of the River Maigue in Lotteragh Upper is the remains of the fort.
It is located very near to the old royal earthern forts (on the same farm) and made of pre-Norman sandstone bricks that were clearly made by a different mason than the Norman towerhouse.  According to T.J. Westropp, the wall was part of a D-shaped fort made of better construction than the De Lacy Tower.

Day 6 - Castle Donovan Clan Gathering Ceremony

An updated version of this site can be found here


  June 25, 2000

It's Sunday so we went to mass in Drimoleague (even us Protestants), where we were lucky enough to be invited to tea at Peg O'Donovan's house. First we were served tea. Then we had an amazing three course lunch. They were all happy that I would be going to the Gaeltacht in a few days in order to learn Irish, but Father John (with full support from the rest of the group) expressed that it was a shame I was going to Donegal instead of Kerry.


By the time we had finished our meal it was time to head over to the ceremony at Castle Donovan. This was amazing, it was like a town fair! It is really moving to see hundreds of clansmen moving across ground that our ancestors walked before us.

The Castle Donovan School of Irish Dancers performed both step dancing and sets:

















There was also plenty of music and singing:


The ceremony concluded with Síle de Valera, Minister for Arts, Heritage, the Gaeltacht and the Islands, dedicating a plaque recognizing the Clan Gathering. It can be found at the junction closest to the castle.
Prior to dedicating the plaque, a handful of people gave short speeches. The most memorable of these was by John Emmett Donovan, whose daughter Regina Crixell (Houston, Texas) was instrumental in organizing the Gathering. John told us an amazing anecdote about his first visit to Castle Donovan. He had served in the U.S. Army during the Korean War, and on his way back to the States he had a layover in Ireland. He convinced one of his friends to take a few days and travel around Ireland while they had the opportunity. One of his goals was to find Castle Donovan, and after a while of searching they did. They ended up climbing the staircase (which is now in the process of collapsing, but still there) to the top and spending the night at the top of the castle. As he told the anecdote, it was hard to not get caught up in the romanticism of his tale and his wistful description of the stars above them that night. I'd love to get the opportunity to have him tell me the details again as I've forgotten many of them, but I'm sure much of the power in that story lay in the fact that I was sitting in the shadow of the castle with 1500 fellow O'Donovans.




The castle is located near Drimoleague. It is signposted, but the people in the village are probably a better source of advice.
The glen that surrounds Castle Donovan:





When the ceremony was over everyone went to the Parkway Hotel in Dunmanway for a closing Banquet. Below are a few photos from that evening:



Fe Fi Fo Fum, I smell an Aggie and an Aggie's son.  Can you guess who they are? 
Me and my 14th cousin, Áine
I know that I look absolutely plowed in this picture, but I actually hadn't had a drop to drink. It was just amazingly hot in there!




Day 5 - Donovan Clan Archaeology Tour of West Cork

An updated version of the site can be found here


June 26, 2000
The archaeology tour was great!














First stop:
Gurranes Stone Row
Gurranes Stone Row (The Three Fingers)


Originally five standing stones all in alignment, three are now standing. A broken forth stone is on the ground in the place where it fell, and the fifth was moved and is now at the Sommerville Estate located near Castletownshend. The stones are located near Castletownshend. Click here for a map.


2nd stop:
Knockdrum Ring Fort at Castlehaven
The inside of Knockdrum Fort
This is my only picture, and I don't know why. Knockdrum is a restored Ring Fort featuring 3 souterrains, it is located next to the The Three Fingers. I can only assume I didn't take anymore pictures because it was a "restored" Ring Fort. I know that picture isn't impressive, but it really is an interesting site. You can read more here.




3rd Stop:
Castle Ivor

Castle Ivor
Located near Union Hall village overlooking Lake Cluhir , this is all that remains of the first Donovan castle of our tour (a couple of walls) built in 1251. It was raining very hard, so we didn't get out of the bus. That's why the picture is blurry. Somehow it seems suitable for someone said to have a Ghost Ship. Read all about Ivor and his ship here.

Next Stop:
Castle Rasheen
Castle Rasheen as viewed from the water
Places like this are why tourists come to Ireland. The castle stands largely intact on the eastern bank on Glandore Harbor (the village of Catletownshend is across the Harbor). After the fall of Castle Donovan, this became the main Donovan castle protecting trade interests in the harbor.  You can read more about it here.
















This is one of many cannonballs that Cromwell left lodged in the side of the castle during his invasion of Ireland. Many others are still in the side of the tower.







The eastern wall of Castle Rasheen






















A panoramic view of the Castle:









Stop #5:

O'Donovan Rossa's Birthplace
O'Donovan Rossa's Birthplace
Jeremiah O'Donovan Rossa was a poster boy of sorts for Irish Republicanism. He was elected to the House of Commons while in prison and perhaps is most remembered for the speech Pádraig Pearse gave at his funeral. He was born in Rosscarbery, basically on the street behind the Celtic Ross Hotel. This plaque is on the wall of the building:







Stop 6:
Coppinger's Court


Coppinger's Court
My photo doesn't do it justice, but this was a fortified mansion built in the early 1600s. It is said to have had a window for every day of the year, a chimney for every week of the year, and a door for every month of the year. The house was damaged during the 1641 rebellion, but much of the building still stands. It's located in the townland of Ballyvireen about 2 miles west of Rosscarbery.





Lucky #7:
Drombeg Stone Circle
Drombeg Stone Circle














This stone circle (arguably Ireland's most famous) is wonderful, but busy. It's located very close to Rosscarbery and well signposted off the main road. Unlike the other stone circles that I have visited, this one also has a communal cooking pit (where they were able to heat up to 70 gallons of water in 15 minutes! -- they used this to cook and tenderize meat) as well as the foundations of two Neolithic  houses. The summer solstice had occurred earlier in the week and you can see the remnants of some flowers that were left in the center of the circle. Stone circles are one my favorite things in the world. If you have any interest in stone circles, I have to recommend Aubrey Burl's fantastic book, A Guide to the Stone Circles of Britain, Ireland and Brittany. I take this with me whenever I visit Britain or Ireland, it has good directions and a write-up on each of the circles. Just click on the picture of the book below:
After we got back from the Archaeology tour, we went to the meeting for the Younger O'Donovans in Skibbereen. It was outstanding to spend time with all of the younger members of the clan. Áine informed the pub that we were 14th cousins, so I'm putting that in my genealogy worksheets.

Day 4 - Donovan Clan Gathering Ceili

An updated version of this site can be found here


June 24, 2000
I finally got my luggage yesterday, and just in time. It was cool last night and cooler this morning. The lectures yesterday were great, especially the one on O'Donovan Rossa by Con O'Callaghan. They moved up the walking tour of Clonakilty though so we ended up missing it. The ceili was fun though. I met two sisters, Katie and Maggie Donovan from New York, who had spent the last two weeks working on one of the organic farms. They said it was cool.

This picture is a group of us at O'Donovan's Hotel in Clonakilty during the ceili. The Hotel is probably best known for Michael Collins giving speeches from one of the upper windows.
We got home at 12:30 and I woke up at 5:30. But I got my run in with lots of time before breakfast, so that's good. I did a loop around Rosscarbery. As I went up the hill out of the village I couldn't believe how gorgeous it looked. I ended up returning through the same area I was overlooking.
I'm excited about the Archaeology Tour that happens this morning!

I tried to send an email last night from the pub, but I don't think it worked. =(



Day 3 - Donovan Clan Gathering Lectures

An updated version of this site can be found here


June 23, 2000
This morning one of the lecturers, Nora Hickey, needed a ride to Skibbereen; so I took her with me. I found perverse pleasure in driving a local with my one mirror car.
The first speaker I heard was Kenneth Nicholls from University College Corkspeaking on Medieval Ireland. The second was named Cathal Carmel? (I am unsure of the surname) speaking on "Why People left Ireland after 1850". The 3rd speaker was Father Patrick Hickey who spoke on the Famine in west Cork.
The first three lectures were good. I ate lunch with Nora, it was great. She's a very interesting lady. She told me that she didn't think that it would be difficult for me to find work in Ireland because there is a high turnover rate for restaurant staff.
After lunch I attended three geneology lectures by:
Brian Donovan, he spoke about tracing the Donovans before 1700
Pat O'Malley who spoke on researching a specific group of Donovans
Nora Hickey spoke on "Are you looking for the right surname in the the right location?

I need to read:
Surnames of Ireland
(as an Introduction) - by MacLysaght and
Surnames of Ireland by Robert Matheson

Arriving at the O'Donovan / Donovan Clan Gathering

An updated version of the sire can be found here

June 22, 2000
Well, as if I thought it possible for the trip to become more exciting...
We landed at Shannon Airport and customs was a breeze. I then went to the baggage claim where I had the privilege of hearing my name called on the PA. It seems my luggage never left Boston. So, I proceeded to the rental car desk, where I found out that I had to recheck the car every 28 days, so we'll see how that goes.
The driving (my first time on the left side) went absolutely wonderfully for 45 minutes,  until I needed to use reverse. So, I stopped and knocked on a door (at 9 AM) and a nice man told me about the secret button.
So, off I was, proud of how well I was doing. That is until I entered a village south of Limerick City where I lost my passenger side mirror to a lady's car door. From that point on the drive was okay.
When I got to Rosscarbery the ocean looked amazing. I'm staying at the Celtic Ross Hotel, so I ate at the pub here, took a nap and went to the opening reception in Skibbereen. The people are great, I managed to have a good time.

Note on my accommodation: The Celtic Ross served it's purpose for me, but I would be unlikely to stay again. The view is amazing with the ocean literally out the front door, but I think that it would be easy to find a B&B for less money, just as nice a room and a better breakfast.




O'Donovan / Donovan Clan Gathering 2000

There is an updated version of this site here.


On a family trip to Ireland in the summer of 1999 I saw something that caught my eye. In one of the Tourist Offices I spotted a flyer about a Worldwide Clan Gathering for the O'Donovan/Donovan clan. This intrigued me and as soon as I returned home, I began making my plans to attend. At the ripe age of 25, I set out on my own to experience life from that vantage point. The following entries are from my journal.

June 21, 2000
Travel with me is never boring. After spending days, even months getting everything squared away I left for the airport. This brings me to the best reason one should have one's mother drive them to the airport.
Upon arriving at the Dulles Airport gate for United Airlines, the nice lady said, "How many bags will you be checking Mr. Donovan?" rapidly followed by "Oh, your flight is canceled." We then came to the realization that I could try to fly standby 1/2 an hour later or drive to National Airport in rush hour for a flight 1 1/2 hours later, but with a ticket. I chose the ticket.
I arrived at the gate precisely one minute before boarding. Finally, all sweat covered, I could relax. For the next hour I did, then we landed in Boston. I was now left with 20 minutes to catch the bus to my terminal and check in. As I sprinted into the abandoned Aer Lingus ticket desk, the most adorable young lady said "Oh, that flight is closed!", then turned her head and said, "Wait! We have one more!"
So, now me and this Irish chick are both running to the gate. I arrive again 1 minute before they shut the door. I was planning on a two-hour layover in Boston too. At least I'm on the plane. I wonder what will go wrong when we land!


This is the information that was sent to those who expressed interest in attending: