The Skinny on Glencolmcille -- What you need to know

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Glencolmcille has been attracting people for thousands of years.  This area contains the densest concentration of prehistoric structures in Ireland.  It was also home to St. Colm Cille's (Columba) monastery (thus the name) in the 500s.  It's hard to say who the most famous visitor has been though, since Dylan Thomas and Bonnie Prince Charlie also are reputed to have spent time here.  In more recent times it has become a haven for hikers and Irish speakers.

• Glen is actually a parish and not a village, though people tend to refer to the collection of townlands around Oideas Gael as Glencolmcille.  Although it is home to one of the largest Irish language schools in the country, it is in fact in what is known as a "breac Gaeltacht". A Gaeltacht is a place that is officially designated as an Irish-speaking area by the government (Read more on Gaeltachts here).  About 34% of the people there speak Irish daily, which means you are more likely to encounter English than Irish.  That said, many of the shopkeepers make an effort to provide services in Irish to people who are there to use and learn the language.
• It is best to get groceries somewhere else.  While Byrne's shop (a Spar) has the bare necessities, you are likely to find it a bit lacking if you are cooking your own meals for a week or more.  If you have a car, there are a few options.  The easiest is to head about 10 minutes (around 6 miles) up the road to Carrick where there are two shops, both better stocked.  If you go 25-30 minutes up the same road you come to Killybegs which has a larger Spar that is pretty good.  Or if you go to the far side of town, there is a full size Supervalu. Another option, which I used to undertake on Saturdays (when we were off from classes), is to go to Donegal Town.  This takes between 45 minutes and an hour (up the same road as Carrick and Killybegs), but they have a large supermarket (Supervalu) on the main road (not the bypass) if you continue through the Diamond and past the Tourist Office it will be on your left.  A Saturday afternoon in Donegal Town is a nice break from studying.
• There is no ATM.  Your closest options are Killybegs (to the east) or Ardara (to the north).  Both take between 25-30 minutes of driving (about 15 miles) to reach.  I tend to head to Ardara because it takes you through the stunning Glengesh Pass.  If you are driving, do not look at the wonderful scenery.  There is a series of VERY sharp hairpin turns that descend into the pass.  I do recommend stopping to take a look though.  It it truly breathtaking and encompasses all that makes Donegal beautiful.  I usually would head here during our lunch break and eat lunch at Nancy's before heading back.
• There are 1 1/2  1 2/2 restaurants.  An Chistin is attached to Oideas Gael and has good food, but the prices are typically not particularly cheap.  If you are willing to walk 10 minutes away from the village, you will come to The Folk Village which has a tea room that serves lunch.  This is the best bet for the budget conscious as it serves soup and sandwiches (made there I believe).  There is also a new cafe located across from Byrne's shop.  I have not eaten there, but it is another option (still open in summer 2014).
• There are three two pubs.  The first you encounter when entering the village is also the oldest, Biddy's.  I'm not sure how old is it, but I saw it in a photo of the Glen from the late 1800s.  It seems as though everyone in Ireland has heard of this place.  It probably has the best pint of Guinness in town, has the old dark feel that many people like from a pub and is likely to have people chattering away in Irish more often than not.  They also are likely to have traditional music inside.  They also will rent a bicycle. (Still closed as of summer 2014)
  The next you come to is Roarty's.  I have no idea what the real name of the pub is, but it doesn't matter because ever since they filmed The Railway Station Man (the sign was painted for the film), it's been called Roarty's.  This is the pub I frequent most.  It usually has traditional music one night each week and a cover band playing rock and/or country on Fridays.  There are really two bars,  a main room, and the "wee bar".  The main room in the summer is full of Irish students (frequently holding conversations in Irish or about Irish) and the other side is usually more subdued and has a more local feel.

  

  Local Legend, James Byrne playing the fiddle at Roarty's in the summer 2000

At the bottom of the hill is The Glen Head.  When I first starting going to Oideas Gael this was your best bet for Traditional music, but the other bars caught on.  It is by far the largest, and in the summer tends to contain a higher percentage of locals.

• The beaches are BEAUTIFUL!   Two of my favorite places in the world are beaches here.  Just across from the Folk Village is a wonderful sandy beach (An Trá Beag) surrounded by rock face and dunes.  Up the road a few miles (about 5 miles) is the famous Silver Strand.  A white sandy beach surrounded on three sides by cliffs.

  

  Sunset at An Trá Beag (The Small Strand), Glencolmcille

• If someone asks you, "Would you like to go to...", say "Yes!"
  Some of my most treasured memories are from some of the excursions I went on.  I turned a few offers down, and regretted a few of them later.  What sort of things might await you?

1) Sliabh League.  I originally thought, "I've been to the Cliffs of Moher.  How much different can this be?"  Well, it's very different.  These are the highest sea cliffs in Europe, and the sort of dramatic scenery that keeps tourists returning to Ireland.  On top of that, it usually isn't very crowded.  I've been there a couple of times when there were only two people who hadn't come with me.  I often return on any day that the weather is nice and am never disappointed with its rugged beauty.
On my first visit, I piled other Oideas Gael students into my car and off we went.  The day was perfect.  Somehow, we all missed that we were following the signposts for the hiking trail instead of the actual road.  So, we had to carefully turn the car around in the bog.

Opal Corsa on Sliabh Liag hiking trail

Once we were back on the proper road, it took us no time at all to reach the car park.  My love affair with the place began on that day.

Pre EU Sliabh Liag

These pictures are from July 2000, before the EU got hold of the place and made it "safer".  The spot where this was taken now has a very nice set of stone stairs to help you make the climb.

My first visit to Sliabh Liag July 2000

You used to be able to go to the very edge of the cliff (scary and dangerous).  There is now an EU funded fence to prevent you from falling to your death.  Where I am sitting is on the other side of the fence now.
2)  The Martello Tower on Glen Head.  It took a few years of people asking before I conceded to this.  When I at last ventured up to the top of the Glen Head with my roommate for that week, we were surrounded by a sudden fog and had to turn back (which was pretty exciting since we couldn't see if we were headed home or over the cliff).  I returned twice in the years after that.  The tower was one of a chain of watch towers built on the Donegal coast in the early 1800s (by the English) in order to spot an invasion by Napoleon should he attempt an attack through the back door of Ireland.  The tower itself is in pretty good shape and the views from here are great.  The cliffs are extremely steep and fall directly into the Atlantic.
3)  The Silver Strand (An Trá Bhán) in Malin Beag (about 6 miles from Oideas Gael).  I had a hard time believing that this beach could be so awesome that I would want to drive five miles and pass two other really great beaches, but as happened time and time again in Glen, it was.  When you reach the car park you can see another Martello Tower  (If you were able to enter it, the one on the Glen Head would be visible).  If you look down, you will see 152 stairs and the most ridiculously pretty beach you have ever seen.  In Virginia, our beaches are sandy, the air is hot and the water isn't too cold.  So, you can imagine my response when urged to "have a paddle" in the water here.  I conceded after five years of harassment on a day that reached 30 degrees, but only after the Italian in our group went in.  They were right, the shallow inlet kept the water far warmer than I expected.  This is also where I received my first instruction in Gaelic football.  In addition there have been dolphins and basking sharks known to slip into to the deeper parts of the water here.  I can't think of a more peaceful place on earth.
4) Port.   Since the Glen is well, a valley, that means there are large hills on both sides.  As you enter the Glen from Killybegs, Malinbeg and Malin Mor are on the left (the south), but across the other side of the Glen (to the north) awaits another spot worth a visit.  If you walk to the mast (antennae) at the top of the hill, a path continues down the other side into the abandoned village of Port.  This is believed to be one of the earliest ports in the county of Donegal.  All that you will find there today are the ruins of the village, some sheep grazing, a few lobster traps and a couple of small fishing boats.  If you have a car, the trip around the hill is longer than you would think (almost 30 minutes), but you are rewarded by some very scenic views as you wind your way through the glen.  On your way you pass a lake, a few scattered homes and eventually just the green of the hillsides.  I still remember the first time I drove to Port and how taken I was with the pristine beauty of the place.  On a day when the weather is nice, I recommend walking up the hill a ways and taking in the view of the ocean.  You aren't likely to find a more quiet, peaceful spot.  It is rare to see anyone else.
5) The Nuala Star.  I am so glad that I went on this boat when asked.  As seems to always be true at Oideas Gael, someone asked me in the morning, "Would you like to take a boat out to see the cliffs?"  That evening, we were off to Teelin Harbour to meet our Captain, Paddy.  Teelin is about 2 miles out of Carrick, home of Sliabh League, and a nice village in its own right.  A small sheltered harbor, it is home to a small pier where you will find Paddy and the Nuala Star.  You simply follow the road from Carrick until it stops at the pier.  The boat will take you to see the cliffs (Sliabh League), fishing, swimming and will let you know of any recent dolphin sitings.  The view of the cliffs from the water is not to be missed!  I have also been almost close enough to touch dolphins over the side of the boat.  Make sure to call ahead to ensure there is room at the time you prefer.

A boat trip I organized in 2004

6) The Rusty (Mackerel).  While you are in Teelin, you should stop for a drink at the Rusty.  Or even better, go into Carrick for dinner and then return for an evening of music at the pub.  This place is famous for all night music sessions (fitting since it was once owned by two members of Altan).  The village is very small, so you won't have any trouble finding the place.  It appears it is for sale if you are interested.  It was purchased by an English couple, but they still have music and drinks as of summer 2014.
6) Glenlough is the glen to the north of Port.  It is famous for being a brief home to Dylan Thomas and the rumoured departure point for Bonnie Prince Charlie.  I have yet to visit, though I will one day.  I was invited to go on my last visit to Oideas Gael, but three days of rain and no hiking shoes changed my mind.  A nice short film has been made about Dylan Thomas' stay in Glen:



You can read the story of Bonnie Prince Charlie's visit to the Glen here.  Historians will no doubt tell you it wasn't him.  But, what do they know?