Honeymoon In Ireland - Clifden, Croagh Patrick and Westport

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5 July, 2008

We got on the 9:15 flight off the island.  We had not, however, informed the Fear An Tighe (Man of the House) of this.  So, at 8:30 (breakfast) we told him.  He was disappointed that we hadn't informed him and was extremely nice, offering anything he could think of for breakfast (He said he would have cooked us breakfast early if he had known).  We had tea, cereal and toast and then were off.

The flights (to and from the island) were very smooth, in spite of this morning's rain.  We hopped right in the car and headed for Clifden.  Clifden (and the drive to it) are beautiful and have been supplying romantic memories to tourists for ages.  We reached Clifden in about 1 1/2 hours and got some coffee and tea and split a bagel at a nice place on Main Street called Upstairs/Downstairs Cafe.  Then we walked around the city centre for a while before spotting a health food store, An Bhean Feasa.  The lady got us some stuff for Sarah's sore throat and it turns out that she's from California.  She was very friendly and chatty and then sent us on our way.  The weather had been crappy the whole day, but it cleared up just as we reached Clifden.

We drove on toward Westport.  We reached our destination, Croagh Patrick, about 1 hour later.  We were starving, so we ate at the Information Centre (Teach na Miasa).  We both had soup and brown bread and split an order of chips (french fries).  It was really good and warmed us up from the rain.  Then we set off up the Reek.

The bottom of Croagh Patrick looking up

The entire top of the mountain was covered in fog and mist.  It looked like a joke, but we decided to head up.  My memories from my other visit were useless this time.  I had factored in the additional eight years of age, the fact that I might not be as fit (though certainly in fine shape), but I hadn't thought about the weather.  The path was a lot more difficult when it was wet.  It was still beautiful and wonderful, but it was a lot more work!  We ascended into the clouds, but bailed out out just before reaching the first station.

The peaceful base of the mountain

The fog kept coming and so did we

I turned around and couldn't see the foot of the mountain

To be fair, we had passed this sign

After that we thought we'd go for a cup of tea in Westport, but the Fleadh was on.  It was a big party!  People were everywhere, and there were no easy parking spaces.

I didn't film this, but this is the event.

So, we went to our B&B, Seapoint House.  It is AMAZING!  Really incredible views of the ocean and the beds here are comfortable!.  The house is almost in the water.  We hung out here a while and took a shower (the one at Claí Bán left something to be desired) and then headed back in to Westport for supper.

Our room at Seapoint House

Our shower at Seapoint House

Bathroom at Seapoint House

Dusk from our window at Seapoint House

We ate at Sol Rio.  We didn't have a reservation, but they squeezed us in even though it was 7 PM on Saturday night during the Fleadh.  Everyone after us got turned away!  The food was great.  We had a 1/2 bottle of wine, split a pizza and had chocolate cake (we split the cake too) and coffee for desert for €46.

From Sol Rio, we drove through Newport to get a look at Rockfleet Castle.  I love this place.  It's such a dominating building, sticking right out into the water.  The idea of Grace O'Malley's ship docked beside the castle with the rope through the window helps it all to sink in.

Rockfleet at Dusk

Rockfleet with the tide out

Rockfleet from the land side

Rockfleet up close

 Day 7 Ireland Itinerary

Clifden (1 1/2 hour drive from Connemara Airport)

Croagh Patrick (1 hour drive from Clifden)
Westport (15 minutes from Croagh Patrick)
Rockfleet Castle/Carraigahowley Castle (25-30 minutes from Westport)

Westport Area Attractions

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June 29, 2000

Today I visited Murrisk Abbey which is at the base of Croagh Patrick.  It is a ruined abbey founded by the O'Malley family in 1456.  It's also the traditional starting point for pilgrims to begin the climb up Croagh Patrick.  For anyone who loves looking at these old abbeys and churches it has some interesting architectural features, including some human heads carved into the outside wall near the eastern window and some battlements amongst other features.  For those who enjoy visiting holy places, it was peaceful and serene.  I'm glad I decided to stop off.

Next I traveled  north toward Newport where I visited Burrrishoole Abbey (or Friary).  There was a lot of this abbey still standing.  I really enjoyed these two stops.  Both of these abbeys were built right on the bay, and are absolutely gorgeous settings.

After that I went up the road a bit to Carrigahooly Castle, where Grace O'Malley (Gráinne Ní Mháille) told her husband, "You are dismissed."  after filling all of his castles with her troops.  You are apparently allowed to go inside.  There is a house next to the castle where you are able to borrow the key, but sadly no one was there when I was.  The more castles I see, the more impressed I am with the O'Donovan castles.

Next I headed south to Louisburgh.  I visited the Gráinne O'Malley Interpretive Centre, but I only found it by driving all four streets in the town!  There is a small blue sign post at the crossroads in town.  The exhibition was pretty good (£2.50).

 On the way back to Westport, I stopped at Kilgeever Abbey (also a big pilgrimage site).  There isn't much of the abbey still standing, but I prayed at the holy well (Tobar Rí an Dhomhnaigh or Our Lord’s Well of the Sabbath).  Again I had some trouble finding it.   There is a signpost on the main road.  At the first left you should turn but the sign was missing!

After the abbeys, I returned to the hostel, and then off to the Octagon and Dunning's Cyberpub.  I love the outside tables, not just the computers!  I met a couple from California at Dunning's, we talked for a long time.  It was really great, peaceful day with beautiful weather.

Croagh Patrick

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June 28, 2000

The Killeen House is nice.  The actual house is beautiful.  My room (#2) has a twin and double bed.  There are two twin and double rooms en suite and two doubles en suite.  My room cost £18 (no credit cards).
I drove through Clifden (where I stopped at a shop for some food and ate lunch by the sea) to Westport, checked in at the Old Mill Hostel and went to Croagh Patrick.  It took me one hour and sixteen minutes to reach the summit.  After about one hour I felt terrible and thought I would never get there.  When I finally saw the cross on the roof of the chapel it was if the weight of the world had been lifted from my shoulders.  The feeling was amazing, I'm so glad that I did it!  I fell once at the most difficult part near the summit.  I also fell once on the way down, which took me one hour and five minutes.  I wish I had taken my water up with me!

The view from whence I came

The view to the top (I unfortunately was to discover that what we are looking at is not in fact the summit)

The first station (pilgrims are supposed to stop and pray here)

Proof that I made it to the top!

To the north

To the south

To the west

To the east

The station at the summit

The path back down (this is where I fell coming up)

It looks deceptively short!

By the time I was finished, I was covered in sweat and dirt, so I stopped in the Tourist Office briefly and then took a shower at the hostel.  There are 18 beds in my room and only one other person has been staying in it, so it has been very nice.
I ate dinner at Dunning's Cyberpub and used their internet.  It was an outstanding setup with fast computers, and only cost me £1.  I spent about 2 hours there in total (eating, using the internet and relaxing in the outdoor area) and then returned to the hostel about 8 PM.  I feel asleep immediately, woke around midnight and am now writing this.
The hostel is nice and clean, and situated right in the middle of town.  It's about as good as anyone could reasonably expect from a hostel.  I'm pleased with my decision to stay here, especially since it's about half what I've been paying for a B&B.

I had originally intended to visit Matt Malloy's Bar in the evening, but was too exhausted.  Sitting outside of Dunning's was a nice end to the day though.  It was about 70° F (21° C)  today and was nice to sit down and relax after climbing Croagh Patrick.  It's a good spot for watching the people around the Octagon, overhearing the interactions at the pub, etc.