10 Great Free Attractions in Ireland

An updated version of this site can be found here

Ireland is a wonderful place to visit.  For many, the biggest drawback is the high cost of airfare.  However, one of the best things about Ireland is the number of great attractions that are free.  I have put together a list of some of my favorite free sites.

Sliabh Liag, An Teileann, County Donegal

Located beyond Killybegs in southwest County Donegal are the highest sea cliffs in Europe.  More wild and striking than the better known Cliffs of Moher, this could well be the best scenery in Ireland.  Though more people are catching on to how special this place is (thanks to the Wild Atlantic Way), it still is not heavily touristed.  I don't think I've every been anywhere more beautiful than Sliabh Liag on a sunny day.  Also not to be missed is the boat trip below the cliffs.
Nice alternative to:  The Cliffs of Moher

Doe Castle, Creeslough, County Donegal

Somehow it took me 15 years to make my first visit to this castle.  After seeing it mentioned in a couple of "must-see" lists, I figured I would track it down.  You can image my surprise when I found out there is no admission charge.  One of the better preserved castles in Ireland, this is  perfect for (and popular with) families as the children can roam around and play.   There are no guided tours available, but it has all the features of the castle you dreamed of as a child.

Derry Walls/Bogside Murals, Derry, County Derry (Londonderry), Northern Ireland

Derry is perhaps the best tourist city in Ireland.  As a flash point in Irish history, Derry has a lot to offer the visitor.  As one of the few towns in Europe that still has it's city walls intact, it provides a nice opportunity for that experience.  It is possible to do the needed research (before you leave home) to give yourself an excellent self-guided tour of the walls (and thus Derry itself), but guided tours are available for those interested.  After walking around the walls, it is very easy to walk down  the stairs from the walls into the Bogside neighborhood (made famous as both a no-go zone for the British military during The Troubles and as the site of the "Bloody Sunday" massacre during a 1972 civil rights march.

Kells Priory, Kells, County Kilkenny

This was the highlight of my first trip to Ireland.  In 1997, the internet was not full of tourist information and in many ways that made travel more exciting.  We had purchased the Collins Touring Map (which is very good) partially because it identifies places that a tourist might find interesting.  We entered Ireland through the ferry in Wexford and I saw a monastery marked on our map in the village of Kells. I assumed (erroneously) that was the the home to the famous Book of Kells.  When we arrived we were surprised to find that it was a different Kells, but pleased to discover we were all alone at this majestic, heavily fortified monastic site.  Even though it is more visited now than it was 20 years ago, you still might find yourself as the lone visitor when you arrive and it is totally free!

Quin Abbey, Quin, County Clare

I have passed this site many times without stopping as I was speeding along to one of the many other nearby sites.  That was a big mistake as this monastery includes many features that are unique, including a tower house castle incorporated into the walls and a completely intact cloister (which I have not seen anywhere else in Ireland).  In addition, across the field there is another beautiful medieval church that is also free.  Parking in town was very easy and there is no charge to one of Ireland's most impressive abbeys.  It is easy to imagine people actually using these cloisters due to the completely intact structures.

Drombeg Stone Circle, Glandore, County Cork

Located near beautiful Rosscarbery, the is one of the finest Stone Circles in Ireland (if not the finest).  The circle is still complete (which is rare after thousands of years of land use) but it also has a Fulacht Fiadh (a communal cooking pit) located a very brief walk away.  This site is very popular with tourists, so unlike may of the sites on this list you aren't likely to be alone but you will not regret the visit.



Carrowkeel


I am unsure of how I ended up with no photos of this incredible site, but I did.  It takes a little bit of effort to get to this site which is located just outside of Castlebaldwin, Co. Sligo, but it is worth the trouble.  Located on top of a mountain overlooking Lough Arrow, the moutaintop is full of Newgrange style burial chambers.  One of them contains the only known roofbox besides the one at famous Newgrange tomb.  While the roofbox at Newgrange is aligned to the Winter Solstice sunrise, this one is aligned to the Midsummer sunrise.  Again, if you spend some time doing the research before you leave for your trip, this could be a very rewarding visit.

Grianan Alieach

Despite visiting the site more than once, I again inexplicably have no photo (though I will have one in July).  This is perhaps the best example of a stone ring fort in Ireland.  Overlooking the city of Derry and Lough Swilly, this was one of the royal sites of ancient Ireland.  Located near Burt, the site is very easy to find and access.

Climb a mountain:  Knocknarea or Croagh Patrick

Many of my trips to Ireland have been the type with two or three attractions per day and a fair bit of distance to be covered in between.  Thus, climbing a mountain often did not sound appealing.  However, once I did I changed my mind.  If you are going to only climb one, I recommend Croagh Patrick (where St. Patrick is said to have spent the 40 days of Lent once).  The climb is very doable and elderly people routinely complete the pilgrimage barefoot, but it is a significant climb and the last 10 meters/yards require climbing scrambling over some loose stones.  The reward at the top is spectacular though and you will have others all along the way to provide inspiration as needed.  It will take take a fit person about 1 1/2 hours to reach the top (it is slightly faster to return) so it takes up most of the day.  For a smaller commitment though, Knocknarea near Sligo is also very rewarding.  It is an easy, gradual 30 minute climb to the top of  Knocknarea.  When you reach the top you see the giant cairn that is featured in the picture.    The mound is said to cover the tomb of Queen Maebh.  There is a nice carpark and a portable toilet in the carpark (at least in summertime).  This view from here is pretty impressive!

Dublin Museums:  Chester Beatty Library. National Museums, National Gallery

Dublin is an expensive city, but fear not.  There are a number of wonderful, free museums available that would easily fill a day or two.  The Chester Beatty Library contains a world renowned collection of medieval artifacts  including a stunning collection from the Middle East.  The National Museum of Archaeology was a pleasant diversion for me one stay as I was available to spend two mornings taking in the exhibits which contain everything from one of the world's finest prehistoric collections, some interesting items from ancient Egypt as well as exhibits on modern Ireland.  For anyone with even a mild interest in art, the National Gallery is great.  In addition to some of the world's most famous paintings, there are also plenty of impressive Irish artists on display.   You could easily spend a few days taking in only the city's free attractions and have a very enjoyable stay.

Go to a beach:  Silver Strand

Although not known for "beach" weather there is a reason that surfers from all over the world flock to Ireland.  There are amazing, white, sandy beaches on all of Ireland's coasts.  Some of them are absolutely breathtaking.  Of all of them, the one that stopped me in my tracks was An Trá Bán (The Silver Strand) near Glencolmcille, Co. Donegal.  At the bottom of a cliff sits this shallow horseshoe shaped beach.  The water is often warm enough to swim in comfortably and lacks the scary undertow that is present at many of Ireland's pretties beaches.  There is also a nice carpark that also has a portable toilet in the summertime.

Tips for travel in Ireland: The Top 12 Sights

An updated version of this site can be found here

I often see lists of the Top 10 Places to visit in Ireland.  After glancing at most, I usually feel that many places are missing (I think that is the point!).  So, without deciding a number ahead of time I have made a list of my favorites.  These are the places I would take you if you asked me to be your tour guide.

For suggestions on where to stay, click here
For suggestions on planning your trip, click here.

#1 - Newgrange (Brú na Bóinne), Donore, Co. West Meath

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Waiting in the rain to enter Newgrange

If you only can see one thing in Ireland, this is it (it is a World Heritage Site).  Newgrange is a prehistoric burial mound dating to about 3200 BC (Older than both Stonehenge and the Great Pyramid at Giza).  This could be the most impressive Stone Age site in the world.  There are many other smaller, similar monuments but this one is clearly head and shoulders above the rest.  Even if you think you have seen all the Stone Age sites you ever need to see, you should visit here.  Allow about 2 hours.

(Heritage Card accepted for admission)

#2 - Cahir Castle, Cahir, Co. Tipperary

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Outer wall of Cahir Castle

There aren't a lot of accommodations in Cahir, but I recommend this as a nice place to spend the night.  My favorite castle (very well preserved)  to visit in Ireland is the main attraction here (and it is wonderful).  This compact and peaceful town also boasts a nice walking path alongside the River Suir that will lead you to the interesting Swiss Cottage.  The tours of the castle have always been great.  Allow 1 1/2 hours for the castle.

(Heritage Card accepted for admission to the Castle and Swiss Cottage)

#3 - Carrowmore, Co. Sligo

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Dolmen inside Stone Circle at Carrowmore

I LOVE visiting Carrowmore!
Carrowmore is the largest megalithic cemetery in Ireland. It contains 60 tombs in total, including one that is considered to be the oldest man made structure in the world.  The tour lasts about 50 minutes and every tour guide I have had has been fantastic.   This is a kind of one-stop shop for Megalithic Ireland.  This cemetery was used for thousands of years and has just about every type of structure possible.

(Heritage Card accepted for admission)

#4 - The Dingle Peninsula

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From Dingle Town, drive the Slea Head loop.  The loop traces the coast of the peninsula and takes you to a multitude of sights.  Among others, you will see a nice Bronze Age promantory fort, Beehive huts and amazing scenery.  Even more awaits inland,  including a wealth of  medieval buildings, monastic sites and buildings. A lot of the sights in this beautiful part of Ireland are very unique.  Accommodation is abundant here and if you head into An Daingean (Dingle Town) there are many and varied restaurants and shops (as well as the pubs and restaurants in the other villages you will pass through).

View from Dunbeg Fort

SIDE NOTE: Dingle Town (An Daingean in Irish) is the beginning of the Gaeltacht (an area where Irish is the primary language).  Road signs in these areas only give the name of towns in Irish.  It's no big deal, but you need to make sure that your map has the Irish version of town names.

Once in town, stop into The Tourist Office and they have great maps that have all of the town names in Irish.


(Some sights are free, some charge a couple of Euro and the Heritage Card is accepted for admission to the Gallarus Oratory and the Blasket Centre.)

#5 - Inis Mór, Co. Galway

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This is one that you will have to go out of your way to include but is more than worth it.  You can take a ferry or flight to get to the island.  I would recommend flying if that is an option for you.  You can fly over in the morning and back the next morning and it is an amazing day.  A great way to see the island is on bicycle, but you can also go with a local  by van or cart.  The most famous site on the island is the enormous Dún Aonghasa. In addition to the stunning fort, the island is full of free outdoor sites.

SIDE NOTE: If you don't know Irish, you should familiarize yourself with the Irish version of places you don't want to miss as some signs are only in Irish.  The Aran Islands are the place in Ireland where Irish is most used.

(Heritage Card accepted for admission to Dún Aonghasa, most sites on the island are free.)

#6 - The Rock of Cashel, Cashel, Co. Tipperary

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About 45 minutes from Cahir (and a great combination to fill up one day without a lot of driving)  is the Rock of Cashel.  One of the more striking (and iconic) sites in Ireland, this was traditionally the seat of power for the King of Munster.  St. Patrick is said to have baptized one of them here.  The Rock is a combination abbey and fortress that contains a round tower and Cathedral all integrated into the same complex.  On a nice summer day, I can't imagine a better day than Cahir and the Rock of Cashel.

(Heritage Card accepted for admission)

#7 - Giant's Causeway, Bushmills, Co. Antrim

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Legend has it that Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn McCool), a giant, built this causeway so he could walk to Scotland in order to fight a Scottish giant.  Scientists claim that a volcano is responsible.  I think we all know which is more likely, that's why it's called the Giant's Causeway.  This natural formation is breathtaking, especially when the weather cooperates.

(Admission/Parking/Restroom is £9.00 (it is run by the National Trust UK))

#8 - Glendalough, Bray, Co. Wicklow

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St. Kevin's Church, Glendalough

Glendalough is home to a medieval monastery that was founded by St. Kevin.  As St. Kevin's fame grew his monastery became more influential, eventually becoming a pilgrimage site and one of Ireland's most important religious sites.  For visitors today, that is all enhanced by the stunning beauty that surrounds it.  The settlement was built in a valley surrounded by mountains that also is blessed with two beautiful lakes.  The Monastic Site is next to a beautiful, free park that also contains some monastic buildings.  I recommend taking in both, especially if the weather is decent.

(Heritage Card accepted for admission)

#9 - Sliabh Liag, Teileann, Co. Donegal

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Slieve League from the east

Sliabh Liag (Slieve League) is the highest sea cliff in Europe.  The cliffs here at the edge of Donegal are almost three times as high as the Cliffs of Moher!  This is one my favorite places in the world.  I have probably been here between 30-40 times and hope to be a frequent visitor again.  The EU has done a lot of work here to increase safety in the last 15 years.  They have done a nice job of allowing you to get close enough to have the full experience of the cliffs while making your visit safe at the same time.  If you continue to walk toward the peak from the car park you will eventually reach what is known as "One Man's Pass".  Legendary among hikers, this is a four foot wide path along the top of the mountain.  Not to be confronted on a windy day!

SIDE NOTE: Teileann (Teelin in English) is in the Gaeltacht (an area where Irish is the primary language).  Road signs in these areas only give the name of towns in Irish.  It's no big deal, but you need to make sure that your map has the Irish version of town names.

(Admission is Free, but be mindful of the weather)

#10 - Dysert O'Dea, Corofin, Co. Clare

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Castle O'Dea at Dysert O'Dea

Dysert O'Dea is a great one stop tourist attraction.  There is a tower house style castle that is in good condition.  Inside the castle is a tea room and an exhibition on the Irish War for Independence and Civil War.  Also on the grounds is the remains of an abbey with a very unique High Cross and round tower.

(Admission is  €4)

#11 - Derry Walls/The Bogside

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The iconic gable at Free Derry Corner

Derry is unique in that it still has intact city walls.  A tour of the walls are a must, especially for those not native to the island. As a focal point for much of "The Troubles", a tour will give a good understanding of modern life in the north.  After touring the City Walls, I recommend a walk through the Bogside neighborhood.  The murals in this Nationalist community are amazing (and famous) and if you are up for a museum, the Free Derry museum traces the Civil Rights movement in Derry.  Derry is a wonderful, unique city to visit.

(There is no fee to walk the walls or look at the murals, but tours do cost a few pounds (Sterling) per person.)

#12 - Kells Priory, Kells, Co. Kilkenny

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St. Kieran's Church, next to Kells Priory

This was the highlight of my first ever visit to Éire and I love to return anytime I am in this part of Ireland.  Kells Priory is located in Kells (about 15 km or 9 miles south of Kilkenny).  This Kells is not to be confused with the much larger, more famous Kells in Co. Meath.  I recommend this as a stop while visiting (or even better, staying in) Kilkenny.

Near the Priory is the striking St. Kieran's Church which is now locked, but you can still see inside.  The Priory's protective walls are majestic and a reminder of how even monasteries needed protection during the middle ages.  On my last visit a lot of work was being done to the structure, so is should be in great shape for your visit.

(Admission is Free)

Gaeltacht Vacation - the Gaeilgeior Strikes Back

An updated version of this site can be found here

After spending six straight summers in the Donegal Gaeltacht, I have been on a hiatus due to a pregnant wife and/or two small children.  Our children turned five and two in the spring and we have decided to take the plunge.  We have a few trips under our belts now (Toronto, Lancaster PA, The Outer Banks, The Eastern Shore, New York City, Princeton, Tampa) and are feeling more confident in our travel skills with our children.  Our main concerns are:
1) Our smallest (Fionnuala), doesn't love long car rides
2) Expense
3) Child related meltdowns
4) Keeping the children occupied/happy on the trip

As I began planning for our trip, I found that for the Irish speaker/learner there really isn't that much help out there on the internet.  Hopefully, this blog can help others with planning their own trips.

Sarah packing the night before our trip

The first decision we had to make was which Gaeltacht would we to visit.  The factors we considered were weather, proximity to shops and medical care, and how relaxing it would be.  Our short list included Connemara, Kerry and Donegal (the three main Gaeltachts).  Connemara is the likely the best choice if the decision is purely Irish-based as the language is used more on a day to day basis by the communities there, but we felt like that was the area with which we were least familiar.  The Dingle Peninsula in Kerry was a strong candidate as well.  We spent a couple of days there in the past and stayed with a wonderful Irish speaker.  The weather and scenery were the main draws here, but alas that didn't win out.  And the winner is...   Donegal.  My wife and I decided the Glencolmcille vicinity would be a good choice.  Though not a particularly strong Gaeltacht (only about 33% of the people are daily Irish speakers), I am very familiar with the area and the locals tend to switch into Irish mode in the summer for language learners.  So, with step one accomplished we move on to the tougher stuff.

With a family of four, we know that this is likely to be fairly expensive.  Our goal is to keep the spending at a reasonable level.  The bulk of the expense for us will be airfare.  We live in the Washington/Baltimore metro area, so there are daily flights to Ireland.

Decision #1 - Nonstop flight or a connection: 

While we spent a few months determined to go nonstop, ultimately saving $1000 swayed us.  We booked on Aer Lingus with a short lay over in Boston.  The other preference I have is flying into Shannon Airport.  The drive to Donegal is a little longer (4 hours from Dublin, a little over 4 1/2 hours from Shannon), but it is so much easier and quicker doing everything at Shannon that total amount of time ends up being about the same with less stress.

Decision #2 - Accommodation:

We are planning on spending almost all of our time in a self-catering house in Teelin.  We were hoping for Glencolmcille, but we couldn't book anywhere without committing to a calendar week.  In Teelin, we were able to book from Monday evening through Tuesday morning (eight days).
Our first day, we decided to go straight to our house.  We weren't sure whether the children would do better with a brief car ride or by going straight to our destination.  We ultimately decided that they were likely to sleep on the drive and that we could stop along the way if we needed a break from driving, so we'd try driving up to Donegal on the first day.  On the last day, we booked a B&B near Shannon Airport in order to avoid a long, early departure.

The upcoming entries will be the report on our trip!

Here is the packing check list that Sarah made for our trip:

Ireland Trip 2014 – Packing List

Crucial – Carry On

___	Passports
___	Boarding Passes
___	Wallets (with Euro and $)
___	Rental Car confirmation
___	An Scrin confirmation and contact info
___	Camera
___	Change of clothes (L, F)
___	Diapers – Nuala (5)
___	Pull-up – Liam (2)
___	Night clothes – L, N
___	Toothbrushes and toothpaste
___	Wipes
___	iPod, and car charger
___	Phone numbers and emails: Eamonn, Liam O’C,
___	Kids thermometer, advil, first aid kit
___	Batteries

Important

___	Waterproof shoes (K, S, L, F)
___	Comfortable shoes for walking (sneakers)  (K, S, L, F)
___	Socks – 5 pairs each
___	Short sleeve shirts – 3 each
___	Long sleeve shirts – 2 each
___	Shorts – 1 each
___	Long pants – 2 each
___	Underpants – 5 each
___	Floss, mini tooth paste, deodorant
___	Books – Travel
___	Books – Leisure

Buy in Ireland

___	Laundry detergent
___	Toiletries (big toothpaste, Hair)
___	Food
___	Diapers, Wipes

Important Phone Numbers

Tania

Eamonn

MaryBeth

Doctor/Hospital

To do before leaving

Pay bills (kevin)

Pay Condo Fee (sarah)

Charge iPod

Charge Irish phone

Charge camera battery

Water Plants

Tips for travel in Ireland: How To Plan A Trip To Ireland

Traffic jam in Mayo (2000)

An updated version of this site can be found here

One thing that is almost impossible to avoid, is planning to do too much on your trip to Ireland.  Even though I have been many, many times, I still am tempted to fall into this trap.  I don't want this to happen to you and make your trip to Ireland stressful instead of wonderful.  We'll take a look at our 2008 trip where we saw the entire island in a 15 day trip (17 if you count traveling to and from Ireland).

Below I have listed our planned itinerary and how that actually played out.  I chose this trip as an example because I had many trips to Ireland under my belt and wanted to show my wife EVERYTHING.  While you can't see everything in a two week trip, you can see each part of the island and get the feel of the various regions in that amount of time.  If you want to read an in depth account of a particular day, click on the title next to that day.

If you would like reviews and suggestions of great places to stay, there is an entry here.

Planned Day 1:     

Glendalough

Glendalough
Avoca
Kilkenny?

Stay in Kilkenny @ Dunromin

Actual Day 1 - Arriving in Ireland after a Transatlantic Flight

Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We met a friend for breakfast in Dublin City and then drove to Avoca, the town where Ballykissangel was filmed. The drive from the Airport to Avoca is less than two hours.  We only spent 15-20 minutes here as we had some more distance to cover.  So, we got back in the car for the 40 minute drive to Glendalough.  It was a nice day and Glendalough was beautiful, but Sarah was starting to feel the effects of our overnight flight.  So off we went on our 2 hour drive to Kilkenny where we stayed the night.  By the time we reached our B&B at 6 PM, it had been a LONG day.
What we did right:  Got outside in the sun to reset our body clocks.
Our mistake(s):  Too much driving.  We would have been better off skipping one stop or driving to Kilkenny the next day.  

Planned Day 2:

Kilkenny
Kells

Stay in Cahir @ Tinsley House on the Square

Actual Day 2 - Kilkenny and Kells

Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We started the morning at Kilkenny Castle which was minutes from our B&B.  When we were finished, we headed to Kells Priory (one of my favorite sites in Ireland) and ate lunch in the village.  We then made the 45 minute drive to Cashel to see the Rock of Cashel.  From Cashel we drove to Cahir (1 hour and 10 minutes) where we spent the night and ate dinner.
What we did right: If all your days are like this, you had a great trip.  We even ended up seeing something that we had planned on seeing the next day(the Rock of Cashel).
Our mistake(s):  Nothing, it was a lovely day.

Cahir Castle

Planned Day 3:

Cahir Castle
Rock of Cashel

Stay on Ring of Kerry @ Shamrock House

Actual Day 3 - Cahir and the Ring of Kerry

Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We started our day off with a run.  After breakfast we went to Cahir Castle (if you only visit one castle, go here).  When we finished our visit we made a 2 hour drive to Killarney.  We ate our picnic in the car park and arrived early to our B&B.  We went for a walk, dinner and then to the Staigue Fort (probably the best Stone Fort you will see).
What we did right:  We had a lot of down time but still were able to see a nice sight that we weren't expecting to see.
Our mistake(s):  It was a wonderful day.  Taking the back road instead of the main road from our B&B to Sneem proved very tiring in poor weather.

The Dingle Peninsula

Planned Day 4:

Skillig Michael
Begin Dingle Peninsula

Stay in Dingle @ Coill an Rois

Actual Day 4 - The Ring of Kerry to the Dingle Peninsula

Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.

We decided to skip Skillig Michael because the weather looked iffy.  We didn't want to drive all the way there and then not be able to go out on the boat. So, we headed straight to Dingle Town.  Two hours later we were in Dingle and took in the Slea Head Loop.  We ended the loop at our B&B, refreshed ourselves and went out again.  We went to the Gallarus Oratory and Kilmalkader Church before heading into Dingle Town for dinner.  After dinner we walked around a bit, and made a stop at an Internet Cafe (with coffee).
What we did right: Skipped Skillig Michael.  If the weather was bad it would have meant a couple of hours driving without seeing the sight.  It also allowed us to see everything on the Dingle Peninsula without feeling rushed.
Our mistake(s):  None, but I do want to visit Skillig Michael sometime!

Planned Day 5:

The Cliffs of Moher path

Finish Dingle
ferry to Clare
Loop Head

Stay in Kilkee @ Keane's Oyster Bar and Restaurant

Actual Day 5 - Cliffs of Moher and Clare

Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We started the day off again with a run.  After breakfast we headed straight for the ferry to Clare.  The drive to Tarbert took about 1 1/2 hours.  The ferry trip is 20 minutes long and then you are in County Clare.  The weather was amazing so we skipped the Loop Head.  It seemed a waste to be in the car on such a nice day.  The trip to the Cliffs of Moher from here took about 1 hour and 15 minutes.  When we had finished there, we went to our B&B near Kilkee.
What we did right: Skipped the Loop Head and made the day more relaxing.  Nothing was rushed and we were able to enjoy the weather.
Our mistake(s): None.  I've never seen the Loop Head, so now I have a reason to visit again.

Planned Day 6:

The Burren

The Burren - Poulnabrone Dolmen
Cliffs of Moher
Dysert O'Dea
Craggaunowen
Quin Abbey?

Stay in Spiddal @ Ard Eoinin

Actual Day 6- Dysert O'Dea, The Burren and Galway

Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We began the day at Dysert O'Dea.  Dysert O'Dea is nice because it ticks a lot of boxes for your trip, a castle, a monastery, high cross, civil war museum, tea room, nature walk, etc.  From there we drove through the Burren stopping many times along way (again enjoying amazing weather and a picnic).  Once out of the Burren it was on to Spiddal.  It was a lot of time in the car this day, but that's really the only way to "do" the Burren.  We arrived early enough in Spiddal to enjoy walking along the sea and through the village on a very nice day.
What we did right: Cut out Craggaunnowen and Quin Abbey.  This enabled us to really take in Spiddal village and enjoy our time between checking in to our B&B and eating dinner.
Our mistake(s): We would have enjoyed more time in Spiddal, at this point in the trip a two night stay would have been welcome. 

Planned Day 7:

The Seven Churches

Fly from Connemara Airport (Aerfort na Minna) Depart 10 AM
Stay on Inis Mor

Actual Day 7- Inis Mor (Aran Islands)

Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.
We woke, ate breakfast and then caught our flight to Inis Mor.  Upon landing a bus picked us up and took us to our B&B to drop off our bags.  We went down to the pier next, where we rented bicycles and took in all the sights.  This day was probably the highlight of our trip.
What we did right: Flying and getting the bikes.
Our mistake(s): None.  This was an amazing day that both of us still look back on fondly.

Planned Day 8:

Depart Inis Mor at 10:15 AM
Clifden

The view from our room at Seapoint House

Louisbourg
Croagh Patrick
Carrigahowley/Rockfleet Castle

Stay in Westport @ Seapoint House

Actual Day 8 - Clifden, Croagh Patrick and Westport

Click the link above for the detailed entry about this day.  
Once our return flight landed, we started the drive to Clifden.  We ate lunch and spent some time walking around the town.  At this point the trip started to catch up with us and Sarah had a sore throat.  From Clifden we went to Croagh Patrick and started up the mountain, but it was too foggy.  So, we went on to Westport.  After dinner we visited Rockfleet Castle near Newport.
What we did right: Skipping Louisbourg made the day not feel too rushed.
Our mistake(s): None.  This was a nice day in spite of the rain and fog.

The top of Knocknarea

Planned Day 9:

Ceide Fields
Carrowmore
Maebh's Mound (Knocknarea)
Carrowkeel

Stay in Riverstown, Co. Sligo @ Coopershill House

Actual Day 9 - Carrowmore and Knocknarea

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We started our day with another run.  Our first stop of the day was Carrowmore, followed by a hike up Knocknararea.  Since Sarah was fighting a cold and we were both feeling tired, we ended our day at 4 o'clock and relaxed at our B&B.

What we did right:  Cutting out sights because we were worn down.
Our mistake(s): It might have been a good place to spend two days instead of one.

Slieve League

Planned Day 10:

Ceide Fields
Carrowmore
Maebh's Mound (Knocknarea)
Carrowkeel
Listoghil?

Stay in Teelin @ Teelin Bay House

Actual Day 10 - Donegal Town and the Slieve League Peninsula

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We began the day with another run.  We missed the Water Bus trip in Donegal Town, so we visited the abbey and ate lunch.  Next, we drove to Slieve League.  We went to the top of the cliffs, then went out on the Nuala Star to view the cliffs from the ocean.
What we did right:  A nice laid back day.  Not too much driving and not too much planned.
Our mistake(s):  None.  This was a very good day, but would have been better if we stayed an extra day.

Planned Day 11:

St. Columb's Cathedral

Donegal Town
St. John's Point
Bunglass (Sliabh League)
Glencolmcille

Stay in Letterkenny at Hilllcrest House

Actual Day 11-  Glencolmcille and Derry

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We began the day with a trip to the beautiful Silver Strand and a brief stop over in Glencolmcille.  From Glencolmcille we headed to Derry and took a walking tour of the City Walls.  When we were finished we headed back to Letterkenny where we were staying that night.

What we did right:  Since we were ahead of schedule, we just keep on going (instead of backtracking to see St. John's Point).
Our mistake(s):  Probably too much of the day was in the car.

Planned Day 12:

The Giant's Causeway

Derry
Giant's Causeway
Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

Stay in Lisburn, Co. Antrim @ Oakfield Guest house

Actual Day 12 - The Bogside Murals and the Giant's Causeway

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We went back to Derry in the morning and took pictures of the Bogside Murals and then went to the (very well done) Free Derry Museum.  Then we were off to the Giant's Causeway (Sarah's must see sight).  The weather was amazing and the northern coast was beautiful.  Both were unforgettable.
What we did right: Went to the Free Derry Museum, picnicked by the sea and skipped the Rope Bridge.
Our mistake(s):  None

The Entrance to the Newgrange tomb

Planned Day 13:

Belfast
Falls Road Murals
Black Taxi

Stay in Dublin at Number 31

Actual Day 13 - Belfast and Newgrange

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We started the morning by sleeping in.  First stop of the day was the Belfast Tourist Information Center to arrange a Black Taxi tour.  Since we couldn't get one in the morning, we stopped by St. Anne's Cathedral for a look and gave ourselves a tour of the Falls Road (the Gaeltacht Quarter).  When we were finished it was off to Newgrange (if you only see one sight- this is the one).
What we did right: Didn't waste an hour and a half waiting for the Black Taxi tour.  Got out of town before the 12th of July.
Our mistake(s):  Took the M1 instead the A1 when leaving Belfast.  This "detour" made the day more stressful.

Planned Days 14 & 15:

Trinity College

Dublin
Planned Day 16:
Depart for Home

Actual Day 14 - Trinity College and the National Gallery

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We began our day with the Tour of Trinity College (which includes seeing the Book of Kells).  Stop number 2 was the National Gallery where we viewed the Jack Yeats exhibition as well as Caravaggio's "The Taking of Christ".  We arrived too late for the last tour of Dublin Castle, so we continued on to the Cobblestone Bar for a pint.
What we did right:  The art gallery was a nice change of pace for us.  Taking a few peaceful minutes to soak in Dublin at the Cobblestone Bar.
Our mistake(s): We didn't check ahead of time to see when the last tour for Dublin Castle would be.  We easily could have arrived five minutes earlier and made the tour.

Grafton Street

Actual Day 15 - Dublin and Kilmainham Jail

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We were both tired, so we only saw one "sight" today.  We took some time to appreciate St. Stephen's Green and Grafton street on our last day in Dublin.  Then we walked to Kilmainham Jail which was really moving (perhaps more so because it was the 12th of July).  A very laid back day, but we needed one.  A long (and full) trip had caught up with us.
What we did right:  Made sure to slow down the pace and really appreciate the sight we visited as well as enjoying the neighborhood where we were staying.
Our mistake(s):  We didn't do this type of day in the middle of the trip.

Summary of the trip:

We had a good trip and created some really wonderful memories that we will have for the rest of our marriage.  We managed to see most of the island and most of the real "must-sees" for a typical visitor to Ireland.  As always, there are some things that we might change if we had the chance to do it again.  Let's look at some of those things.

What we did right:

1) We did a pretty good job leaving out items on our itinerary if they were going to make the day stressful or too long. 
2) We also took some breaks to let our minds and/or bodies rest.
3) We went north.  In my opinion it's a crime to not go north of Sligo.  There are so many unique things to see that most people miss.
4) We got the Heritage Card.  If you are going to many of the sights maintained by the government, it will pay itself off quickly.

Our mistakes:

1) We did too much the first day.  We could have easily stayed somewhere near Glendalough for the night and still been able to be in Kilkenny by the time everything opened the next morning.
2)  Somewhere on the west coast we should have spend two nights in one place.  A week into our trip we both were getting tired.  We would have benefited from spending an extra night near Westport or Sligo (and eliminating one in Sligo or Donegal).  In addition to some much needed rest,  we could have seen some things we skipped and still not fallen behind on our schedule.

It's easy for even an experienced traveler to get sucked into doing too much.  Ireland is a wonderful, welcoming place to visit and offers a wide range of sights.  You can't see everything, so as Rick Steves often says, "Always plan like you will return."

Books I would recommend using when making your plans:

The internet is wonderful and extremely helpful, but I still like to use travel books to plan my trips.  The internet is the best place to find out about accommodations, but the books do a better job detailing Irish sights.  All guidebooks have strengths and weaknesses, these are some good ones with brief comments about them.

Lonely Planet Ireland -  A good resource with a very popular following.  I am pleased to say that the 2016 edition is a return to form.  The newest edition is a really good guidebook.  It includes all areas of the island,and has nice sections explaining the culture and history.  If you only use one guidebook, this is the one I would recommend.  They had not really done any updating since the mid-2000s, but this update was a pleasant surprise.




Fodor's Ireland - This is a new edition for 2016.  In the past I have not really been impressed by Fodor's Ireland.  The new updated edition might the best Ireland book for 2016.  Many of the new editions do not include all areas of the island, but this one does a good job.
They also address a pet peeve of mine, listing the English language place names in Gaeltacht regions (since English names do not appear on any signs).  Fodor lists place names  in Irish speaking areas using the Irish language name (as it appears on signs) and in parenthesis gives the old English name.  Most other books will tell you that the road sign gives the names in Irish but proceed to tell you about the place without using the Irish language name.

The Rough Guide to Ireland -- The 2015 edition is a good guidebook.  My only complaint is that it uses the Anglicized place names in the Gaeltacht and does not list the official names anywhere (which is all that is on signposts and probably all that is listed on your map).  That could be confusing as the English name is often not similar, ex:  An Clochán Liath = Dungloe.



Rick Steves' Ireland - I like Rick Steves' books, but Ireland isn't his best.  It does have a few things going for it though: it's the only guidebook that is updated yearly and it is well written.  Plus, the section of general information in this book are excellent.  I would say they are amazing for a first time visitor but also useful for a returning visitor.

Frommer's Easy Guide Ireland -  This is the original European guidebook.  The main thing that makes this attractive is all Frommer's book were updated for 2016.  The main drawback is that the Easy Guide does not cover every county (the trade-off for the book being small).  The Complete Guide is extensive and has some large color foldout maps.  I was disappointed by the Complete Guide.  It complains about road signs being in Irish because many maps don't use the official names of towns, but then includes a map that also does not give you the official names of towns which exacerbates the problem!



Let's Go Ireland - This was my Bible when I went to Ireland in 2000 & 2001.  The writing was candid, clever and funny and I really loved reading it.  Unfortunately, they never really updated it.  This is the 2007 edition.  If you've never been to Ireland before this is still a good read.



Cadogan Ireland - This is a wonderful book, but has not been updated since 2008.  Even so, I love this book.  It's chock full of all kinds of places that no one else will tell you about (most of them free).  I like to copy the pages for the areas that I am visiting and throw away the pages once I have already left the area.