Fionnuala (2) again had trouble sleeping in the middle of the night. We decided to start the morning in Málainn Mhóir in search of Megalithic tombs (returning to the seen of the crime). It turns out that they were fairly difficult to find and my memories of 14 years ago did not come through.
The entrance to the bar at Óstán Ghleann Cholm Cille
We did get a good look at Óstán Ghleann Cholm Cille (the Glen Bay Hotel) though. It was sad to see the place in disrepair. As you can see from the photos, it appears as if they just shut the door and left everything as it was on the last day of operation. In reception all the furniture is still there with brochures for local attractions on the tables! This was one of the few food options in the area for years as well as an additional bar. I usually ended up here about once a year for something. I saw Altan and The Revs perform in the Ballroom in 2001, spent the night there once and also attended a wedding at the hotel. In it's last few years they had added a 9 hole golf course that appears to be reclaimed as pasture. Hopefully, whoever buys it will be successful!
Óstán Ghleann Cholm Cille
At least the signs are bilingual
Reception at the Glencolmcille Hotel
Liam checks to see if there are any vacancies
The abandoned dining room
An Trá Bhán
Next, we moved on to the Silver Strand (An Trá Bhán) up the road in Málainn Bhig. The Silver Strand is one of my favorite places in the world. I love to come here and just sit and watch the sea. Unlike most similar attractions in Ireland, this one has two Port-A-Potties (Temporary Toilets) and a large car park. To reach the beach there are 165 stairs, so we opted not to try the steps with the children. They enjoyed the stop anyway! If you are up for it, the water is often reasonably warm because the water is shallow and the views from the beach are spectacular.
The Silver Strand Car Park
On the way home we tried to find Saint Kevin's/Cavan's Church (Teampall Chaoimhín). The Martello Tower is on the same road and looks like it is in great condition. The road isn't signposted but you can see the Tower, just head down the road that goes in that direction. The road is not paved beyond the pier and I would not recommend driving any further than that as it was difficult to turn the car around and it would have been virtually impossible on my own (there is picture below).
Maretllo Tower in Malinbeg
Martello Towers were built in the early 1800s as Napoleon was gobbling up Continental Europe. The British feared that the French would attempt to invade the Empire through Ireland. These Towers line the coast through this part of Ireland. From this tower you can see the Tower in Gleanncholmcille and one near Sliabh Liag.
The road to St. Kevin's Church
I found the church, but didn't go all the way down to it since it was a ways off the road and the rest of the family was in the car. In a couple of years, when Fionnuala can walk better we'll go all the way down to investigate. According to Michael Herity, the current church was built in the late middle ages. There is a cross slab at the site as well and the remains of a rectangular enclosure which surrounded the church. The site is opposite Rathlin O'Birne island and was used as a stop by monks and pilgrims on the way to the island which also houses a monastic site.
Teampall Chaoimhín in Málainn Bhig
Rathlin O'Birne Island
Teileann Bay
The Nuala Star leaving for a tour
We then returned to the house for Fionnuala's nap and lunch. After she woke, we took a brief spin down to the pier at Teileann Bay. We had seen what we thought might be a Holy Well (there is said to be one nearby) from across the water and wanted to check it out. We didn't find it, but we took some pictures anyway!
Though we didn't find the Holy Well, here is a picture taken from the well that might help YOU find it.
On the pier there is also an interesting marker that would be easy to miss. The Gallagher Bros. building (which is impossible to miss) is built around what turns out is an old church. There is also a marker which indicates that in the 5th Century some monks from Teileann sailed to Iceland and this is said to be their church. It would be easy to miss, and I passed by for years before I stopped to read the sign.
The marker at Teelin Harbour that honors the monks
The inscription in Irish, English and Icelandic
Station #1 of Colmcille's Turas
Then we head over to Gleann. We stopped by the Church of Ireland (St. Columba's) first. The current building was built in 1828 and is the prominent feature in the valley. Originally this was a monastic site, on the north and east sides of the church you can see remains of the original wall just beyond the current wall. Before the current church existed, the church used to sit above the entrance to the sous terrain.
I was hoping to see Bishop Daniel McGonagle's grave. He was one of Ireland's three representatives at the Council of Trent and local tradition has him buried here. The grave is supposed to be against the wall at the east end of the graveyard, but there is no indication of which grave it might be. There were however some other very old and interesting grave markers. The Church is also the beginning (Turas 1) and the end of Colmcille's Turas (Turas 15). Turas 1 is built on what originally was a court tomb, it is known as "The Altar" as has a small kneeling place just outside the churchyard wall.
Station #15 of Comcille's Turas
In the Church Yard is also a sous terrain. The monastic settlement's church floor was above it and it is thought that it might have been used for cool storage and also as a means of escape as the tunnel ends just outside of the churchyard walls. In the past you could just open it and go in, but it now has a proper door. For some reason when I went in years ago I didn't take any photos! I did find some on the internet though which you can view if you click here. If you get the chance to go inside, there are a few cross slab inside that are very similar to ones that are used in the Turas.
The entrance to the Souterrain at The Church of Ireland in Glencolmcille
Old Grave markers in Glencolmcille
The carving on this tombstone is the symbol of St. Columba. Colmcille means "dove of the church".
The Church of Ireland Churchyard, Glencolmcille
Next, we headed just a bit down the road to visit the Turas at Farranmacbride, which I wanted to show Sarah. From the church, we headed away from the sea and took the road to the left. After a large bend in the road is Turas 9. Cloch an Aonaigh (Stone of the Gathering) is an interesting cross slab as you can see below. Pilgrims look through the hole, place their backs against the stone and renounce the world, the flesh and the devil before circling the small cairn three times while praying.
Local tradition holds that couples would become engaged by standing on either side of the pillar and joining fingers through the whole. A crowd would be assembled to witness the ceremony, thus the name Stone of the Gathering. Sarah and I saw another similar cross at the Kilmalkedar Church a few years ago in Kerry.
Cloch an Aonaigh (Turas 9)
The cross at the top of the slab
The two carved circle at the bottom of the cross
Sarah wanted to see the Old Rectory, so we stopped by (but I'm not sure if you are supposed to). Either way, the younger locals have told me that is supposed to haunted. If not haunted, it is certainly a creepy place after dark.
The Old Rectory, Glencolmcille
On our way back through Cashel (the main village in Gleann) we paused for an attempt to recreate a photo that we have on our wall at home from the late 1800s. It's not exactly identical, but it's close.
The Glen Head viewed from Cashel village
To reward the children, we took them to the fantastic playground next to An Halla Muire. They had a fantastic time playing. We even heard a mother saying the Irish nursery rhyme, "Lamh, Lamh eile" to her child. We also got to hear an old man teasing the mothers on the playground for having a football, accusing them of not reading this sign. He then proceed to read it, emphasizing the part that says, "Don't play football in the park."
After a lot of hard playing we decided to leave. As we left, Liam said "Slán." to his playmate who responded in kind. Even though he played it cool, it made Liam's day. One of the things he was most looking forward to was being able to use Irish on the playground.
It was now time to eat and since we were leaving town in the morning we decided to splurge and eat at An Chistin (next to Oideas Gael). The meal was very good and the staff spoke Irish! I was fortunate to have someone I know walk in and be able to have a conversion as Gaeilge as well.
That was the conclusion to our stay here as we now headed back to the house to get ready for bed. Everyone is sad to be leaving, but at least we have a little time tomorrow to appreciate everything.
Gaeilge Experience: Gleann is often criticized for not being a "real" Gaeltacht, but we found Irish everywhere. Perhaps most of the locals do not use it as a primary language, but it is obviously spoken and easy for them to do so. It was a good final day in the Gaeltacht. Got to use Irish in the restaurant as well as being able to listen in on some locals using their Irish.
Fionnuala had trouble sleeping again last night and refused to let me comfort her at all, so Sarah again was called into duty at about 2 AM. By the time we ate breakfast, assembled our picnic and got ourselves ready to explore it was 10:15 AM. Today our plan was to head to the north of Donegal. It took us about two hours to get to Gartan, including a brief stop at a shop in Glenties and a few wrong turns. The kids did well in the car, but were thrilled to get out. Luckily, they loved Colmcille's birthplace. They both investigated the large cross and the megalithic circle in the enclosure, while we all ate our picnic lunch. I think they would have stayed all day, but I wanted to make sure we got to see Castle Doe (that's how we got the kids in the car). The sight is signposted, but keep your eyes peeled.
Megalithic circle; protruding out the right side is the slab on which Colmcille is said to have been born
The 16th Century Church
A map of the complex
1 km up the road was our next stop, Colmcille's Abbey. I'm really glad that we included this in our trip! The abbey was built inside a ringfort and is said to be where Colmcille's family lived (and is also a possible birthplace) before later gifting the land to him for the monastery. I had never visited either of these Colmcille related sites and found the monastery to be a nice stop. As soon as we stopped, Liam (5) sprinted across the car park to the church with Fionnuala (2) right on his heels. I heard "Wow, treasure!" and I began sprinting across the car park as well before they could touch something! When I got inside the church I explained what all the tokens and offerings were for and each child then left a coin and we said a prayer. After exploring some more Liam said that he wanted to leave another offering, so he collected some flowers and left these as well.
Then we headed into the cemetery, but it began to rain a little, so we hurried to the furthest boundary cross, checked out the original abbey foundations and got in the car before getting too wet.
This is a still a pilgrimage site with five marked stations that I found (seven after reviewing my pictures later). The pilgrimage is performed between 9 June (Colmcille's Feast Day) and 15 August. The stations are as follows:
Rath Cnó Stations
Pilgrims begin by stopping at the Holy Well, removing their shoes and rinsing their feet in the outer well before proceeded to Turas 1.
Turas 1 - Inside the church
Turas 1: Inside the 16th Century Church. The church was built in 1532 by Manus O'Donnell, Earl of Tyrconnell. He was a descendant of St. Colmcille and wrote the biography from which most of the Colmcille tradition is derived.
At this station pilgrims kneel and say the Station Prayers (5 Our Fathers, 5 Hail Marys, 5 Glory Be and one Creed).
Close up view of Turas 1
Turas 3: The top boundary cross
Turas 2:
On the side of the church building (the right-hand side as seen from the car park) there is a mound of stones. Pilgrims circle the mound three times while saying the Rosary, placing a stone on the mound each time. They then kneel and say the Station Prayers.
Turas 3: At the top of the graveyard is a stone cross marking the western boundary of the monastic site (The northern boundary cross is inaccessible because the farmer has blocked it off. Might this also could have been part of the original Turas?). Pilgrims circle the cross three times rubbing their back against the cross and kissing it each time around while saying the Rosary. They then kneel and say the Station Prayers. Turas 4: The 10th Century Abbey foundation
Pilgrims circle the graveyard saying the Rosary, then enter the graveyard gate and circle the 10th Century Abbey three times. Then they kneel at the Abbey foundation by the Turas 4 marker (next to a cross) and say the Station Prayers.
The marker for Turas 4
The foundation of the original abbey (Turas 4)
The foundation of the old abbey (the highest point)
An Turas 5: The Cross marking the boundary of the original abbey
Turas 5: The southern boundary cross by the church (next to the car park)
Turas 6: The Holy Well
Pilgrims circle the cross three times while saying the Rosary. They rub their back and kiss the cross each time, then kneel and say the Station Prayers.
On the way out we made a brief stop at the Holy Well.
Turas 6:Outside of the Holy Well
Pilgrims circle the outside of the well three times while saying the Rosary. Then they kneel outside the railing and say the Station Prayers.
Turas 7
Turas 7: Inside the Holy Well enclosure
Turas 7: Inside the Holy Well
After this, Pilgrims go inside the enclosure, lift water from the well and say the Station Prayers.
After this they return to the church, enter it and lift the stone which held the cross on the gable end of the abbey. They then turn around to the right three times resting the stone on the alter each time.
Once finished, Pilgrims return to the well and put their shoes back on.
Doe Castle
By now the kids were beyond ready for the promised castle! A short way up the road (near the intersection with the N56) we passed the signpost for Doon Rock and Holy Well but I didn't dare stop. Hopefully, I'll get another chance to see it. The trip to Doe Castle was quicker than I expected (20-25 minutes). When we pulled into view of the castle both kids exclaimed "A castle!" The castle was wonderful and is free! You can't enter the keep, but the kids were in heaven. It is in pretty good condition, this would normally have an admission charge.
Liam storming the casrle
Fionnuala storming the castle
The front gate of Doe Castle
Hoodie up to no good
More castle storming
Fionnuala enters the courtyard
The keep from the courtyard
The courtyard
Having a rest
The fact that Doe Castle is free makes it a "must see" if you are in this area and is a perfect fit for little children. We spent a long time running around the castle and then headed home. We decided to make the loop around the coast on the N56 through the heart of the Gaeltacht. It took two hours to get to Killybegs where we stopped at Melly's Cafe for an early meal. It wasn't cheap, but the fish is very good (Fish & chips €11 each, kids burger and chips €3). Fionnuala ate a bit of everyone's dish. After a stop at Supervalu we headed home for the day.
